Sfinci di Cucuzza

I’ve been so busy with planting and transplanting my seeds that I haven’t had much time to post here recently. But one recipe that I’d like to share is something that I had made for St. Joseph’s Day, back on March 19th. St. Joseph, better know as the father of Jesus, is the patron saint of pastry chefs. In Italy, the day is traditionally celebrated by eating zeppoles, the pastry dough which is fried and then coated with confectioner’s sugar. However, I came across a recipe in SWEET SICILY by Victoria Granof, for a fried pastry, called sfinci in Italian, which included an interesting combination of ingredients and flavors: sugar pumpkin, rosemary and currants. I loved the combination of sweet and savory and thought I’d give it a try instead of the usual zeppoles. Since sugar pumpkins are hard to find in March, I used kabocha squash, also known as Japanese pumpkin, which is one of the sweetest and most flavorful of all the winter squash. I’m not usually a big fan of fried foods, but it was fun to make these at home and shake them in a paper bag with some sugar and eat them piping hot. They were delicious and quite a treat!

First roast the squash:

Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut squash in half and remove seeds. Place in baking pan and pour 1 cup boiling water into pan. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for about 45 minutes, or until soft.

Remove skin and any stringy bits from the center of the squash. Place in food processor or food mill, and process until smooth. Set aside.

In large bowl, add ¼ cup of organic sugar to about ¼ cup warm water. Sprinkle a ¼ oz. pkg. of active dry yeast over the water and give it a stir. Let sit for about 5 minutes, or until the water becomes creamy and frothy.


Add 3 egg yolks, 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary, 1 cup of pureed squash, and ¾ tsp. salt and stir to combine.

Sift together 3 ½ cups of all purpose flour and 1 tsp. baking powder. (Note: I split the flour by using 2 cups all purpose and 1 ½ cups white whole wheat flour).

OK, this is where it got a little tricky. The directions read:

“Add the flour to the squash mixture all at once, stirring vigorously until the mixture becomes a stiff batter (or a loose dough, depending on how you look at it).”

When I added all the flour, it became nothing resembling either of the two. There was simply not enough moisture or liquid to absorb all of the flour, so I wound up adding probably ¾ - 1 cup more water in order to get a consistency which was more like a pizza dough.


Stir in ¼ cup currants, cover the bowl with a moist towel and place in warm spot until the dough doubles in size, about 1 ½ hours.

In a deep saucepan heat about 2” of vegetable oil until a deep fry or candy thermometer reads 350°F. Using a tablespoon, scoop small spoonfuls of dough from the bowl, and drop into the hot oil. Fry for a minute or two on the first side, till golden brown, then turn and fry for another minute.

Place on paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with additional organic sugar and enjoy hot!

Bon Appetit!

Other recipes you might enjoy:

Sweet Potato Muffins
Gougères
Irish Soda Bread

Spring Has Sprung !

Having returned from last night’s volunteer’s meeting at Hobbes Farm, a local community farm which I will be posting more about in the future, I was thrilled to be greeted on the morning of the first day of spring by this message from Kitchen Gardener's International in my email inbox...

THE OBAMAS TO EAT THE VIEW

In spite of the lingering gray skies, and snow flurries appearing like confetti from yesterday’s parade outside my window, this set my spirits sailing on a new course for the new season.

The Eat the View Campaign was begun by Roger Doiron of Kitchen Gardener’s International to propose the planting of a victory garden at the White House, similar to that initiated by Eleanor Roosevelt back in the day. Along with Mr. Doiron’s organization, there were many people instrumental in achieving this. There were the 100,000 people who signed the ‘Eat the View” petition. Also among the leaders of this campaign was Michael Pollan who wrote an open letter to the incoming Farmer in Chief, which appeared in the NY Times, as well as Alice Waters, who has been lobbying for a vegetable garden at the White House since 1992. In an article published in the San Francisco Chronicle yesterday, she reacted to the news by saying,

"It just tells you that this country cares about people's good health and about the care of the land.” "To have this sort of 'victory' garden, this message goes out that everyone can grow a garden and have free food."

For Mrs. Obama’s groundbreaking today, she will be joined by 23 fifth graders from a local school, who will be involved throughout the growing season with the care and tending of the garden. According to an article in the NY Times this morning:

“While the organic garden will provide food for the first family’s meals and formal dinners, its most important role, Mrs. Obama said, will be to educate children about healthful, locally grown fruit and vegetables at time when obesity has become a national concern”.

So what can White House chefs, Cristeta Comerford, Sam Kass and pastry chef Bill Yosses start contemplating when they begin composing their menus? While Clintons had a container vegetable garden on the roof of the White House,

...“the Obamas’ garden will have 55 varieties of vegetables — from a wish list of the kitchen staff — grown from organic seedlings started at the executive mansion’s greenhouses”.

It includes several varieties of lettuces, and plenty of greens: spinach, swiss chard, collards and kale. Peas and carrots, radishes and rhubarb, and berries for dessert will also be on the menu, along with some standard fare herbs and some more unusual varieties such as anise hyssop, thai basil and sorrel. Camomile also will be grown…a favorite tea maybe of the First Family? Edible flowers such as nasturtiums and marigolds will border the raised, organically fertilized beds, along with zinnias, for cut flowers. And to top it off, a White House staff member will also tend two bee hives for honey.

But there will be no beets grown in the First Garden. Why no beets? Well, the President doesn’t like beets. I guess that’s one Executive Decision we can live with!

And what can you do if you aren’t able to grow your own garden? According the the NY Times article:

“Mrs. Obama stressed that she doesn’t want people to feel guilty if they don’t have the time to have a garden: there are still many small changes they can make.

“You can begin in your own cupboard by eliminating processed food, trying to cook a meal a little more often, trying to incorporate more fruits and vegetables,” she said”.

On a personal note, as a natural foods chef and volunteer on the education committee of Hobbes farm, I am very excited about this news and look forward to the new White House setting an example for all of us. I share Mrs. Obama’s sentiments when she says,

“My hope is that through children, they will begin to educate their families and that will, in turn, begin to educate our communities.”

Yahoo! My seed packets are in hand. Happy First Day of Spring!

Spring Dandelion Soup

Nothing could be simpler to prepare or more satisfying than a delicious hearty spring greens soup. Thought more of as a “weed”, the humble dandelion has been part of medical folklore since ancient Roman times for it’s tonic abilities. The name originated from it’s toothsome shape, and was called “Dent-de-lion” which in Old French means lion’s tooth. Dandelions were introduced to the midwest United States from Europe to provide an important way to kick off the honeybee season. The yellow flowers which bloomed in early spring provided nectar and pollen which, before nature’s garden begins it’s abundant blossoming later in the season, is an important food source for the bees.

Of course you can dig in your own backyard for these weeds, but like gray hairs, they are notorious for multiplying when removed. When the upper greens are torn from the ground, the taproot splits. They are available almost year round in many produce sections, but it’s a sure sign of spring when they start appearing in the farmer’s markets.

Traditionally, the root was a spring tonic. It works directly on the liver to clean up toxins accumulated there over the winter. The root, the greens and the flower are all edible. They can be steamed, boiled or sautéed. The greens are bitter in flavor, and benefit from being combined with some sweet root vegetables, such as parsnips or carrots. They are surprisingly more nutritious than many other more common vegetables: higher in beta-carotene than carrots, and higher in iron and calcium than spinach. So while we are busy spring cleaning our homes, nature has provided a way that the body can benefit from a spring cleansing as well.


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2 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
1 cup dried baby lima beans, washed
1 bunch green dandelions
2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1” cubes
2 ribs celery, uncut
3 medium carrots, cut into 1” rounds
1 large onion, cut into 1” pieces
3 large cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 bay leaf
10 sprigs fresh flat leaf (Italian) parsley
about 6-8 cups water
sea salt & black pepper to taste
garnish: grated Pecorino Romano cheese


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Wash dandelion greens thoroughly in large bowl, rinsing until all sediment has been removed. Cut off leaves and reserve. Cut stalks into 1” pieces.


Add all ingredients to large saucepan. Add enough water to cover vegetables with 2-3” additional water on top. Bring to a boil.


Lower heat and simmer for about 1 ½ hours, stirring occasionally, until beans are completely cooked but have not broken apart.

Remove celery stalks, remaining parsley stems and bay leaf. Check seasonings for salt and pepper.

Garnish with grated cheese to taste and a turn or two of fresh cracked black pepper.

Bon appetit!

Other recipes you might like:

Sauteed Garlic Greens
Potato and Leek Soup
Grilled Miso Salmon


Cook's Notes:

If harvesting dandelion greens in the wild or your backyard, be certain that there have been no pesticides, herbicides or chemical fertilizers sprayed.

Making Yogurt

Homemade yogurt turns out to be another one of those things that are really simple to make, but you may never consider making yourself. I was someone who was intimidated by the process, before knowing what was involved. Years ago in college I had visited the Dannon yogurt factory in Long Island City, Queens as part of a research paper for a class, and was somewhat intimidated by all the whizz bang machinery and science involved with producing it on a mass scale, and never even once considered it to be approachable on a home kitchen level.

Well, wrong. I came across a simple process of making it, in the book, “660 Curries” by Raghavan Iyer. Besides being an IACP award-winning teacher, he is also a very humorous and approachable writer. No special machines, no fancy equipment was involved. His technique was so simple, that really, if you could boil milk and read a thermometer, you’d be able to make your own homemade yogurt in no time. I had to give it a go!

Here’s how:

So all you need for your first batch is a bit of commercially prepared yogurt with live cultures: streptoccus thermophilus and/or lactobacillus bulgaricus are needed to convert milk to yogurt.

Bring about 2 cups milk (I used organic whole cow's milk this time ) to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring often to prevent the milk from thickening and burning on the bottom. Once it boils, pour it into a glass or stainless bowl. Let it cool down to about 110°F.

Note: This may take longer than you think. The first time I did this I used a pyrex measuring cup and it took for-eva (I learned that a watched thermometer never drops). The next time I used a shallow bowl - much bet-ta.

Once cooled, whisk in about 1 tbs. of live yogurt. I used Fage’s Greek yogurt. Cover with plastic wrap, and place in a warm draft-free place for 6 hours. I used my toaster oven. What I did was every 2 hours or so I would hit the dehydrate button for a moment or so to build up some heat, and then turn it off. Of course I removed the pyrex cup with the plastic wrap on it while I was doing this.

By this time, your yogurt will have developed and set into a rich, creamy consistency, ready for eating or for your favorite recipe !

Bon Appetit!

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Cook’s Notes:

At 6-7 hours it had set into yogurt but was a bit bland to my taste, I guess I prefer a bit more tang. I refrigerated it overnight, to see how it would develop. By morning it was just the right consistency and had a nice tang to it.

The next batch I made, after the yogurt had set, I placed it in a strainer lined with cheesecloth and let the whey drain overnight in the refrigerator. This produces a thicker (and yummier) yogurt.

You can double this recipe if you need a larger batch. Just remember to reserve a couple of tablespoons of your original batch that you can use for subsequent batches.

You can use different types of milk for this: whole cow’s milk, low fat milk, goat’s milk or sheep’s milk. Obviously this will have a direct relationship to the consistency and flavor of the finished product. In India, buffalo milk is also used. It produces a richer, creamier yogurt that is higher in fat, lactose and protein content but actually lower in cholesterol.

So I served my delicious plain yogurt, with some grated jaggery (Indian cane sugar) and cardamom. It was so good. Now I’d like to experiment with some other flavors. What’s your favorite?

Other How-to's you might like:

Baked Basmati Rice
Usli Ghee
Making Crêpes

Irish Soda Bread

The Irish, of course, have a wonderfully storied cultural history here in New York. Before arriving in great numbers during the Great Potato Famine of 1845, they immigrated along with the English during the 1720’s, as well as after the American Revolution in 1776. They have been intertwined with the city’s history over the years, and New York City’s St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and St. Patrick’s Day Parade are both enduring testimonials of their lasting contributions.

I came across a great book recently called “Arthur Schwartz’s New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes”. Mr. Schwartz was the former long-time food editor and restaurant critic of the New York Daily News as well as Long Island’s Newsday.

It traces the history of NYC’s gastronomic roots from the first Dutch immigrants to the current wave of new immigrants, as well as including recipes to some classic food and drink associated with NYC. It is rich with NYC culinary lore, which to someone growing up here is both comforting in it’s familiarity and fascinating in it’s wealth of historical information. Many of the food icons of daily life, so often taken for granted, are broken down by their ethnic and social origins and their history is revealed. It is also highly recommended to anyone who’s visited here, or has an interest in a city which has been called the ‘Dining Capital of America’.

Within it’s pages the melting pot of cultures and kitchens is unveiled in such tempting treats as: the Egg Creams and Knishes of the Jewish Lower East Side, Chinatown’s Pepper Steak, the German delicatessens’ Rice Pudding, the grand hotel’s Waldorf Salad, the origins of the New York Cheesecake, and of course Nathan’s & Hot Dog Onion Relish. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that the chapter, ‘New Yorkers’ Favorite Food’ with the Italians’ Spaghetti and Meatballs and Biscuit Tortoni is a personal favorite! And there’s so much more …

This is a book to be devoured, as it brings the story of eating in the Big Apple to vivid life.
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Which brings us back to the Irish. I don’t always wait for St. Patrick’s Day to make Irish Soda Bread. My feeling is that it falls into the category of quick breads which don’t need a special occasion to make. This recipe was first published in the New York Daily News in the 1950’s and Mr. Schwartz states that it is “by now many families’ ‘family recipe’. Here are the ingredients of the original recipe for you to try for yourselves:
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2 cups all purpose flour
1 ½ tsp. baking powder
¼ tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
¼ cup sugar
1 ½ tsp. caraway seeds
3 tbs. unsalted butter
1 cup buttermilk
2/3 cup raisins, coarsely chopped
1 tbs. unsalted butter, melted
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon

Procedure:

Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter a 8-9” round cake pan.

In a medium bowl, combine dry ingredients (items 1-6), reserving 1 tbs. sugar for topping. Mix until well combined.

Cut the 3 tbs. butter into small pieces. Cut into dry mixture either with a pastry blender or pulse gently if using a food processor. Mixture should resemble coarse cornmeal.

Add buttermilk slowly and mix only till it moistens all of the dry ingredients. Fold in raisins.

Turn onto lightly floured surface and knead gently a few times to thoroughly combine all ingredients into a dough. Form into a 5” round loaf and place in prepared pan.

Using a sharp knife, cut an ‘X’ into the top of the dough, penetrating about 1-2 inches. Brush the top of the loaf with the melted butter and sprinkle with 1 tbs. sugar mixed with cinnamon.

Bake for 35-45 minutes until golden brown. Place on rack to cool. Serve at room temperature, lovely with Irish butter and a little of your favorite jam or preserves.

Bon Appetit!

Cook’s Tips:

I changed the recipe around this time. I’ve never made it with whole wheat flour, but tried it and loved it! I also substituted some currants for the raisins and soaked them in Irish Whiskey until they were happy. It is a holiday after all!

Other recipes you might enjoy:
Cocoa Cake
Buttermilk Biscuits
Snickerdoodles
Gougères with dill
Sweet Potato Muffins